One family’s adventures in and around the kitchen with local food...

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Tue, 15 May 2012 09:07:49 -0700

Dear Readers,

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Thanks for following our adventures in and around the kitchen...

Ann and the gang

Resuscitating the Salad...

Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:35:44 -0700

Everyone knows we should eat salad. It’s the perfect vehicle for getting loads of healthy produce into our bodies. Salad can translate to fewer calories and saturated fat, plus more fiber, vitamins and minerals.
The down side is when it becomes too ordinary and everyday, a boring flavor-void, pushed aside or picked at, rather than enjoyed. We know we should eat it, but how about tomorrow? Perking up a worn-out salad routine calls for creativity—a fresh approach with fresh ingredients. Here are a few tips to change it up.

Mix the dressing: It’s done in a flash, and the taste will astound you. Plus there’s less salt and sugar, and no preservatives. Break out the highest quality oils and vinegars. This is the time to use the extra virgin stuff. Add a touch of something special: fresh tomato, citrus or berry juice, truffle oil, homemade pesto, smashed avocado, tahini, ginger, buttermilk, or herbs and spices. Experiment. It’s low-risk, so go “off-road”. Taste your handiwork. If you’re not happy, experiment more.

Dress in the bowl: This simple act coats each bite with dressing—just the right amount. Don’t over do it. If diners want to select their dressings, serve portions in separate bowls, so each can “toss” their own. A glop on the top just doesn’t taste the same.

Add nuts, fruit and cheese: Spring strawberries shine on a bed of spinach or arugula with crumbled feta and toasted walnuts. As summer fruit arrives on the scene, the variations are endless. Add pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, local walnuts, almonds and pistachios. Toast nuts and seeds to heighten flavors. Cheeses offer creamy or sharp counterpoints—fresh mozzarella or aged Parmesan, fresh ricotta versus feta.

Lose the lettuce: Who says it’s required? Pick another element to showcase—perhaps beets, broccoli or fennel. Shred carrots and toss with arugula, cilantro, spring onions and olives. Mix up a crunchy slaw with cauliflower, radish and carrots.

Appreciate the leaves: There’s more out there than lettuce. Sturdy kale and cabbage lend texture and crunch. Arugula adds peppery kick; dandelion, a satisfying edge; spinach is delicate and earthy. Mysterious escarole, endive, watercress and radicchio are off the normal American radar, and laden with possibility. Mix mild and bold, delicate and substantial, for balance. And don’t forget a handful of chopped herbs for a pop of unexpected flavor.

Make it a meal: Add roast chicken, crisp bacon or grilled fish. Fold ingredients into a bowl of cooked grains like farro, rice, or barley for chewy texture and nutty flavor. Pasta may be old-hat, but how about a new shape or size? Check out Israeli couscous, orzo or ravioli. Canned beans are easy additions—just rinse and drain. Or sprinkle some cooked lentils into the mix. For a classic one-plate meal, top a dressed green salad with a fried egg.

Sandwich it: Pile a favorite salad on crusty artisan bread. Tuck into a thin Middle-eastern lavash or warm tortilla or Indian naan.

Deconstruct it: Turn an entrée into a hearty salad. Nestle a burger in a bed of greens instead of the usual bun. Toss leftover roast chicken and potatoes with romaine, and creamy buttermilk herb dressing. Instead of tacos in a shell, crumble the shell on top of the fixings and a load of crunchy greens.

Turn up the heat: Grill halved romaine hearts and top with buttermilk herb dressing. Roasted root vegetables are especially nice with assertive greens like escarole or arugula. In the summer, grill peach halves and toss with arugula or spinach, fresh mozzarella and balsamic vinaigrette.

Look beyond croutons: Tear toasted pita into the bowl—a classic with fresh mint in Middle-Eastern fattoush. Toss Italian Panzanella with bread cubes and seasonal vegetables—in summer the cubes soak in juicy tomato, in winter, orange segments work magic.

Chop it: Cut ingredients into small dice and pile side by side on the serving plate. You’ll experience a whole new textural dimension just by changing ingredient size and shape. Drizzle with dressing.

Recipes for the Week

Check out this creamy, herb-laced dressing—a fresh and simple alternative to bottled ranch.
Buttermilk Herb Dressing

Strawberry, Feta and Arugula Salad
This simple salad is elegant and unusual but quick to prepare. Serve it at a party and your guests will be wowed. Substitute spinach for the lettuce if you prefer. In summer months try adding other seasonal fruit such as blackberries, raspberries or nectarines. Sometimes I substitute toasted pumpkin seeds for a different crunch or candied walnuts found at TJ’s.

(Serves 6)
Ingredients:
1/4 cup olive oil
1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon honey
Pinch each of dry dill, oregano and thyme
1/4 cup walnuts or pecan pieces
1 small head of lettuce (or half large head), thoroughly rinsed and dried
1 half bunch arugula, rinsed and dried
1 thinly sliced spring onion or small shallot
2 cups fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and halved
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
Method:
1. Place olive oil, vinegar, salt, honey, herbs and several turns of freshly ground pepper, in a clean, empty jelly jar. Shake vigorously to mix.
2. Place nuts into a dry, shallow pan over medium heat. Toast until brown in spots, shaking the pan frequently while nuts are toasting, to prevent burning. Watch carefully as nuts scorch easily. Cool.
3. Tear lettuce and arugula into bite size pieces and place into a large salad bowl. Add onion or shallot. Toss with enough dressing to lightly coat (you may not need all the dressing).
4. Add strawberries, nuts and feta cheese on top.

Cauliflower, Radish and Carrot Slaw
I love a crunchy slaw. This one showcases healthy raw cauliflower, carrots and radishes. You could easily add broccoli, fennel or celery. Even turnip or rutabaga. I use a julienne peeler to make the carrot strips, but a sharp knife works just as well. Toss in a handful or two of chopped dandelion greens for extra nutrition—no one will even notice they’re there (unless you want them to know).

(Serves 4)
Ingredients:
1 small head cauliflower cut into thin strips and small florets (about 3-4 cups)
5-6 red radishes cut into thin strips
1 large carrot cut into thin strips
½ cup minced spring onions (with green tops)
½ cup chopped arugula
¼ cup chopped cilantro or parsley
¼ cup olive oil
1½ tablespoons cider vinegar or lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 small pressed clove of garlic (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Method:
1. Place shredded vegetables into a large bowl. Add onions, arugula and herbs and toss well. 
2. Put olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and mustard, and garlic (if using) into an empty, clean jar. Season with salt and pepper. Close the jar with its lid and shake well. 
3. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to combine. Adjust salt and pepper as needed. Allow salad to sit for 15 minutes so flavors can meld together.

Taking Care of Mother

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 21:39:52 -0700

This week is a perfect time to think about Mom. It’s her day on Sunday, April 22. No, I’m not talking about the ladies that raised us. I’m talking about the big, round one. The one whose back we straddle, and whose precious resources fuel our lives. Unfortunately this is the same grande dame that suffers silently at our hands — buried in our copious piles of trash and indelibly altered by our ever-accumulating greenhouse-gas emissions.
With Earth Day just around the corner, it’s an appropriate time to think about how we care for our Mother planet. And how we can do better. It might feel as if our personal role is miniscule in the face of a world riddled with bad habits, but each green step, no matter what size, moves us in the right direction. Our food habits matter. Here is some food for thought for Earth Day.
• Eat less meat. Not surprisingly this is an underreported story in a meat-oriented culture, and probably the single biggest way our dietary choices can help the environment. Facts are that the meat industry produces more carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases than transportation and industry. And as we experience a meat-eating renaissance of sorts — with DIY butchery and nose-to-tail eating — our carnivorous habits are on the rise. This not to suggest that vegetarianism is a viable option for most or that the nose-to-tail movement isn’t onto something important. There’s no moral judgment involved. Just the simple fact that eating one less hamburger saves the equivalent of a 10-mile drive in a 3,000 pound car. So, let’s try a meat-free Monday, now and then.
• Eat fresh food. Every time we pass on packaged food we’ve eliminated solid waste. Yes, some packaging can be recycled, but avoiding it in the first place is even better for the earth. For us, too. No unpronounceable additives or preservatives. Just food. Pure and simple. And it’s not just about trash. There’s the environmental cost of creating the package — the chemicals, energy and resource use for something that has questionable value.
• Eat fresh, organic, seasonal food. As Freshness Farms participants we’re already on our way — less chemicals on the earth and in our diets. Organic may be slightly more expensive, but the seasonal aspect lowers costs with greater supply. Plus the food simply tastes better — think luscious, fragrant spring strawberry versus dull, tasteless winter one.
• Eat the whole thing. Nose-to-tail, root-to-stem. However you look at it, thrifty eating makes environmental sense. Earlier generations lived this way because of economic necessity and scarcity (abundance is a relatively new concept in our world). Today as we consider resource use, the notion is as current as ever. If a hamburger takes the energy of a 10-mile drive to produce, we can’t afford to waste any part of the animal. Plants either. They have a resource cost as well.
• Let it rot. If we can’t find a way to turn our scraps into something edible, we mustn’t toss them in the trash. There’s no reason not to compost when we consider how easy it has become with self-turning, electric units small enough to fit in a kitchen cabinet. Reduce trash. And feed the Earth in the process.
Recipes for the Week
Spinach, Lemon and Couscous Salad
Roasted Broccoli and Tomato Pasta

Quick Tips:
Toast bread, then top with goat cheese and sliced strawberries. Add a few sprigs of spring herbs. Maybe a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

Sauté romaine (cut into one-inch strips) in olive oil, minced garlic and red pepper flakes until barely wilted and still crunchy. For an Asian-inspired variation, add some minced ginger root plus a splash of soy sauce and rice vinegar.

Cut fennel bulb into large chunks and roast (coated with olive oil). Add some onions or tomatoes to the pan. Or shave raw fennel and add to salads. It pairs nicely with cilantro, beets, citrus and celery.

Tools in the Kitchen...

Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:19:24 -0700

I often remind my electronics-appreciating husband that I’m not a gadget person. Strategically stated, as he’s poised on the brink of another early-adoptive purchase. If I’m not careful, there’ll be a brown shipping box waiting on the doorstep in short order. It’s true, I’m not much into TVs or iPads, but I do confess to adoring a toy or two of another sort. The kitchen variety. My toys, by contrast, are rather ordinary, low-tech — even ancient in design. The favorites fit in a single drawer with room to spare (though the second and third string require more space). I justify my indulgence by pointing out the food they enable. And the strategy works. Every time. After all, a TV only whets the appetite, while a kitchen tool delivers.
Here’s a run-down of my friends in the drawer (pictured above). I’ll never willingly tackle a nightly meal without these able assistants:
• Global Knives — lightweight and easy care in the dishwasher. Keep a sharpener nearby too.
• Handheld immersion blender — quick cleanup (with removable blade stem) and no-fuss puréeing of soups, sauces and dips right in the pot or bowl. Mine has a mini food processor attachment just right for pesto and hummus.
• Microplane grater — the best tool for zesting citrus and grating hard cheeses like Parmesan into feathery shreds.
• Mortar and pestle — an ancient tool, as useful today as it was a thousand years back. Perfect for coarse spice grinding. Or mixing up a rustic herb and garlic pesto. Even guacamole (in a jumbo-sized molcajete).

• Bench scraper — land chopped vegetables tidily into the pot. Rather than here and there, along the way.
• Heavy, end-grain cutting board — the end-grain orientation is easy on knives. The weight provides a sturdy cutting surface without warping. Plus it rests with beauty on a counter.
The next tier, I’d barely survive without:
• Enameled cast-iron Dutch oven — this heavy-duty workhorse simmers soups and sauces evenly — without scorching. I’ll hand this indestructible classic down to my kids.
• Cast-iron griddle — when seasoned properly, this non-stick wonder cooks everything from pancakes to tortillas or pupusas, Indian paper-thin dosas to charred peppers for salsa.
• Coffee grinder reserved for spices — grind what you need, as you go. Concoct your own spice blends. Freshly ground spices will astound your senses. Toss out the old, tired, nothing-tasting pre-ground stuff.
• Food processor — biscuit dough, hummus, pesto, ground nuts, smooth soups and sauces — all with ease.
• Electronic scale — used nearly every day. The most precise way to measure flour for baking (well, really anything).
Here are the nice-to-haves; they’re slightly more indulgent, but, oh — so wonderful:
• KitchenAid stand mixer — a back-saver for mixing bread and pizza dough. Add attachments for fresh pasta noodles. A small price to pay for years and years of weekend family-cooking fun. Admittedly it needs a large space for parking.
• Cast-iron grill pan — indoor grilling on the stove — in any weather.
• Electric ice cream maker — homemade ice cream on demand. Need I say more?
• Ceramic pizza stone — the crispiest crust is yours. Ours is small enough to tuck away amidst the baking sheets.
Recipes for the Week:
White Beans with Spinach and Lemon
Carrot Soup with Coconut Milk and Spices
Quick Tips:
Hull and halve strawberries. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar, raw sugar (such as turbinado) and black pepper. Stir gently and set aside for half an hour. Serve over vanilla ice cream.

Make a fresh spinach salad with strawberry halves, shaved onion and balsamic vinaigrette. Toss and top with candied walnuts from Trader Joe’s, and crumbled feta.

Cook French green lentils until tender. Drain and cool. Toss with a dressing made with olive oil, lemon juice, Dijon mustard and pressed garlic. Toss with the lentils plus some lemon zest, shredded raw carrots and beets, chopped spinach and parsley, sliced celery, salt and pepper. Serve on a bed of lettuce with shaved Parmesan or crumbled goat cheese.

Barnyard Paradise

Wed, 4 Apr 2012 08:55:05 -0700

Early spring brings longer, light-filled days, bursts of growth in the farm field and increased egg production in the barnyard. It’s an opportune time to consider the good fortune of the pasture-raised hens at Glaum Egg Ranch. Our feathered girlfriends at Glaum are genuinely free to roam their range. That freedom means good health for the chickens. And superior eggs for Freshness Farms.

You’re probably familiar with free-range eggs. The words are stamped liberally across carton upon carton stacked in the grocery refrigerator case. If not free-range, eggs are touted as cage-free or make other claims that imply happily-ever-after endings. When I picture free-range, here’s my daydream vision: sprightly hens scamper across the open landscape of the barnyard at will, feeling the warmth of spring’s sunlight on their backs as they peck at green plants and tiny insects in the dirt — free and natural as domesticated birds could be. These are not animals crammed into restrictive cages, unable to move or flap their wings (glimpses we have witnessed through the reporter’s lens — the unseemly side of factory farming). We believe that the free-range bird, by contrast, lives as a hen should live — as it has every right to do. And this is why we seek the label on our egg cartons.

In reality, what free-range implies is not necessary what’s delivered. The USDA regulates the term minimally and only as it applies to poultry — not egg — production, requiring that “poultry has been allowed access to the outside”. That’s all. No mention is made of how much access, quality of living conditions or treatment of the animals. The wording grants producers wide latitude, and it is possible that free-range birds may actually live in over-crowded conditions where free movement and outside access is severely restricted — though technically allowed. Not quite the idyllic scene we picture. Even worse, for eggs, there is no regulation of free-range, or any other label. However minimal.

This does not mean that farms using the free-range label skirt humane practices. Many producers follow the true spirit of the words. As a consumer though, it’s tough to distinguish the good guys from those less honorable. Thankfully there’s help — a label that can be taken at face value: Certified Humane Raised and Handled. Humane Farm Animal Care (HFAC), a non-profit, industry-independent organization, awards the Certified Humane label to producers who demonstrate humane practices throughout the entire production process — providing proper nutrition, sufficient space, shelter and gentle handling to limit stress. Glaum Egg Ranch, a third generation family farm, was the first major California egg producer to be certified in this way. The Glaum ranch includes 40 acres, and their goal is to “provide above-standard conditions to protect the health and welfare” of their chickens.

Humane treatment is not just crucial for the flock — it impacts us at the dining table. Hens that spend their lives crowded in cages, unable to engage in natural behaviors, tend to be over-stressed and prone to disease. They are routinely fed prophylactic antibiotics. Just as healthy soil fosters healthy vegetables, it follows that healthy chickens lead to healthy eggs. Eggs that fuel our good health. Check out Freshness Farms’ website for ordering details.

Egg Facts
Organic –
Glaum hens are provided vegetarian feed to support full nutrition for healthy laying. The difference between organic and non-organic eggs lies in the feed. California Certified Organic Farm (CCOF) eggs are laid by hens that receive certified-organic feed.

Brown versus white:
Egg color is determined by breed. Hens that lay brown eggs do not produce white eggs and vice versa. There is no nutritional or taste difference between the two.

Omega-3:
These eggs come from hens fed an Omega-3-enriched diet — usually flaxseed or seaweed. Glaum’s pastured hens receive Omega-3 nutrition naturally from the green plants they eat and this is passed on in their eggs. Though Omega-3 eggs are higher in Omega-3 content, eggs laid by pastured hens are nutritionally superior overall. Think of it this way, infant formula is higher in iron than mother’s milk, but mother’s milk provides superior overall nutrition.

Nutritional facts:
Eggs are a good source of selenium, iodine, Vitamins B2, B5, B12, D and phosphorous, as well as low-cost, high-quality protein. Eggs contain choline and lutein, substances important for healthy brain function, and that protect against inflammation and age-related vision problems. The conventional wisdom regarding egg consumption is changing. Recent studies show that individuals on healthy diets can eat 1-2 eggs per day without experiencing any measurable change in blood cholesterol levels.

Recipes for the Week:

Best Hard-cooked (not boiled) Eggs –
Have you ever wondered why hard-boiled eggs turn out rubbery — with chalky yolks? The answer is that eggs actually like gentle cooking — not hard-boiling. Turn off the heat. It’s that simple.

Place fresh eggs into a saucepan and cover with water by at least one inch. Bring to a full boil over high heat. Turn the heat off, cover the pan and leave on the burner for 12 minutes. Remove eggs from the pan, place into an ice-water bath and cool.

Try these peppy Deviled Eggs loaded with the fresh herbs of spring. They’re perfect for an Easter buffet or loaded into a picnic hamper, ready for a spring outing.

How about a thick slice of custardy-soft French Toast? Just right for Sunday brunch — though you’ll make room on the weekday dinner menu, once you’ve had a bite.

Potato Arugula Frittata –
Frittatas are the classic egg dish of Italy. They are made with all sorts of vegetables, employing flavorings such as herbs, cheese and onions. Try substituting other greens or adding lightly sautéed mushrooms.
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 ½ cups potatoes cut into ½-inch dice
• ½ onion (or small leek), finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 6 large eggs
• 3 tablespoons soft goat cheese
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 cups chopped arugula (or other greens)
1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Heat oil in a 10-inch oven-proof skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil, the onion and potatoes and sauté until tender, turning often, 10-15 min. In last 5 minutes add garlic and greens — cooking until leaves are wilted but still bright green. Remove mixture from pan and cool.
3. Meanwhile, lightly beat eggs in a large bowl. Add add goat cheese, salt, pepper and lightly beat to combine. Use salt sparingly since cheese is fairly salty, ¼ tsp is probably ample. Add potato mixture to the bowl and stir.
4. Wipe out skillet used to cook potato mixture (or use a fresh pan) and heat remaining one tablespoon oil. Swirl the oil around to coat pan evenly. Add more oil if necessary to completely coat. Pour the egg mixture into the pan, and cook over medium-low heat, occasionally sliding a spatula around the edges of the pan to loosen frittata as it sets. Continue cooking until mostly set, except on the top, about 8 minutes.
5. Place pan directly under broiler and cook until top is golden-brown and set, about 1-2 minutes. Watch carefully so frittata doesn’t burn. Invert onto a large plate, cut into wedges and serve. May be cooled, and eaten at room temperature.
If you haven’t already, try these root vegetable hash browns featured last week — they’re the perfect destination for this week’s rutabaga. Toss in some fresh chopped herbs too.
Tuck healthy carrots into these moist muffins. You can substitute canned pumpkin for the sweet potato, if you like. Carrot-Sweet Potato Spice Cakes

Quick Tips:
Cut broccoli into small pieces. Add dried currants, minced onion, toasted nuts and sliced grapes. Toss with olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Add some crumbled feta or blue cheese before serving.

Serve a tossed herb and mixed green salad using the bounty of the farm bag — chopped dill, arugula, cilantro, kale and romaine pieces. Toss with balsamic vinaigrette, sliced oranges, broccoli and carrot.

Follow the recipe for deviled eggs above, but instead of stuffing the egg halves, chop them and mix with the yolk mixture. Spread on white bread and serve for high tea.

Sautéed Freshness...

Wed, 28 Mar 2012 08:35:06 -0700

Today’s post is the first in an occasional series of articles exploring basic cooking technique, with step-by-step guidance and tips. Today, we focus on how to sauté.
If there were a Hall-of-Fame for culinary technique, sautéing would be a first-round pick. This classic method is simple, versatile and a wise choice for healthy, fresh-tasting meals. In our kitchen we sauté nearly every day — in a simple preparation of seasonal vegetables, or as part of a larger process such as creating a soup, saucy curry or even a baked frittata.
The word sauté comes from the French as a form of leap or jump. Imagine ingredients jumping on a hot metal surface (who wouldn’t?) as a cook shakes her skillet and stirs its contents. To sauté is to cook food in a shallow pan, coated lightly with oil, butter or other fat, over relatively high heat. It is distinguished from deep-frying in the amount of oil involved (less), and from stir-frying in the degree of heat and length of cooking (less and more). As a catalyst for developing deep flavor, there is no method more useful, and understanding the technique opens the door to a wealth of delicious possibilities in the kitchen.
Here’s how it works:
1. Select a pan. Choose a wide, sturdy skillet with a heavy bottom. Size is dictated by ingredient amounts. You want a surface area large enough to accommodate ingredients in a shallow layer. When food is piled too deeply it steams rather than sautés. Food pieces need direct contact with the pan as much as possible. A heavy bottom ensures even heat conduction throughout the surface to minimize “hot spots” where burning can occur. Unless a recipe calls for non-stick, it is not required, and often a regular pan is preferred to build the sort of complex layers of caramelizing flavor that can end up nestling themselves in the crannies of a browning pan — and consequently, in the food.
2. Heat the pan over medium to medium-high heat (on my Viking range, medium is perfect). Add oil or butter when the pan is just warm. Choose a fat that can withstand heat (with a high smoking point). The purpose of the fat is to prevent food from sticking while enhancing the natural taste of the fresh food. All that’s needed is enough to coat the surface of the pan — anything more becomes frying. Recipes typically call for a specific amount, but use judgment. A larger pan may require more fat, a smaller one, less.
Olive, grape seed and canola oil are good all-purpose choices. Butter imparts rich flavor, but burns at a lower temperature. Keep an eye on the pan and disaster will be averted. I sometimes add a smidge of butter to a larger portion of olive oil — taking advantage of the flavor boost, but reaping the benefit of the oil’s cooking profile.
1. Add ingredients to the pan when the oil begins to shimmer, or the butter stops foaming (before it browns). Avoid adding ingredients too soon or they’ll end up drying out with extended exposure in a heating pan. Don’t wait too long though, or you’ll have a smoking pan. You’ll know you’ve got it right when you’re greeted with the peppy sizzle of food hitting a hot surface.
2. One of the keys to a proper sauté is allowing the food to cook without too much meddling. This takes courage and patience. And delicate balance. By all means, stir and turn to prevent burning (lower the heat or add a splash of water, if needed, to slow down the process) — just not too much. Food needs ample time and contact with a hot pan to develop the characteristic golden-brown beauty marks of a perfect sauté. Those well-earned spots translate to a bonanza of flavor. Constant turning is akin to a watched pot — resist the urge, and you’ll reap the rewards.
3. You’re now on the way to sautéed freshness. Let your recipe determine the endpoint — or the poke of a fork in a tender carrot (10 minutes), wilted texture of delicate spinach (less than 3 minutes), or the deep-brown patina of caramelized onions (nearly an hour).
Recipes for the Week:
First, if you happen to have a nearly-stale half of a crusty baguette, a few beets and a couple of oranges from last week (maybe a handful of arugula too), here’s a killer salad that riffs on an Italian summer classic — Panzanella (Bread Salad). Only this one is citrusy and studded with the occasional earthy bite of deep purple beet — Winter Panzanella with Beets, Orange and Fresh Herbs

And what about a fresh pasta entrée with sautéed leafy greens, perky lemon, toasted nuts and creamy, fresh ricotta? Pappardelle with Greens and Lemon
Plus you might want to try these versatile Sautéed Carrots with fresh herbs (pictured at the top of the page above). Pair them with nearly any main course. Or toss with brown rice or quinoa for a vegetarian entrée.

Root Vegetable and Potato Hash Browns. This dish riffs on classic American hash browns (AKA home fries). We’ve thrown in cubed rutabaga, but sweet potato or turnip would be great too. Or nothing but potato, if you prefer.

Quick Tips:
Mix orange zest with softened butter, a bit of honey, the tiniest squeeze of juice and a sprinkling of salt. Spread on warm toast or a crusty roll.
Make a loose pesto with parsley: place a packed cup of the chopped leaves in a small food processor with a clove of minced garlic, two tablespoons grated Parmesan, 3 tablespoons walnuts, a squeeze of lemon juice, a pinch of salt and 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (more as needed for a spreadable consistency). Process, using the metal cutting blade, until smooth. Add to cooked pasta or spread on a sandwich. Stir into soup. Fold into hash browns.
Chop kale, sauté with garlic, onions and pinto beans until soft and tuck into a corn tortilla with queso fresco and tomato salsa.

Let us know what you’re sautéing this week. We’re always looking for fresh ideas…

Spring is in the Air

Wed, 21 Mar 2012 11:24:12 -0700

This article was contributed by guest writer, Nasim Hashemi.

Respecting Earth and the rebirth of nature, for many cultures in western Asia once part of Ancient Persia, the New Year celebration, NoRuz ("New Day") begins on the first day of spring. In ancient times our calendar year began at springtime. “September” was the seventh month and “October” was the eighth month. This year at 10:14 p.m. on Monday, March 19, winter gave way to spring. Let’s take a moment to honor our Earth and celebrate spring, our new season.
Among the many rituals of the New Year, people thoroughly clean and rearrange their homes in preparation for a new beginning. The celebration starts on the eve of the last Wednesday (Tuesday evening, March 13, 2012) of the year, as revelers leap over bonfires and disguise themselves to collect nuts and natural sweets from seven homes. Jumping over the bonfires is an exchange of energy, where one gives negativity or sickness to the fire and receives, in return, positive energy and health. Ritual belief held that ancestors would visit the living on this night, so people — especially children — traditionally cover themselves in shrouds (like ghosts) to symbolically reenact the visits. Celebrants run in the streets alongside the bonfires and bang on pots and pans with spoons to scare away the spirits. Children knock on the doors of seven homes and receive treats in return.
On the night before the vernal equinox, families gather to share a special dinner consisting of herb rice and fish that represents spring. A ceremonial table called sofreh-ye haft-seen (cloth of seven dishes, each beginning with the Persian letter seen) is prepared. The number seven has been sacred in western Asian cultures since ancient times, and the seven dishes stand for the seven angelic heralds of life: rebirth, health, happiness, prosperity, love, patience, and beauty. The symbolic dishes may include:
Sabzeh (Sprouts): Wheat, lentil, barley, or rye sprouts represents rebirth.
Sib (Apple): Apple represents beauty.
Senjed (Dry fruit of lotus tree): The fruit represents love and joy.
Sekeh (Coin): Coins represents prosperity.
Seer (Garlic): Garlic represents health.
Serkeh (Vinegar): Vinegar represents patience.
Somaq (Sumac berries): The berries are the color of sunrise and represent happiness that keeps evil spirits away.

Other elements and symbols are placed on the table as well, for instance holy books and works of poetry or wisdom. A basket of painted eggs symbolizes fertility. An orange or pomegranate floating in a bowl of water represents the Earth floating in space. Goldfish in a bowl of water suggest life as well as the end of the astral year (Pisces). A mirror represents a reflection of the purity of one's heart, while lit candles signify enlightenment.
On the eve of the New Year, the family sits together, in new clothing, waiting for the sun to cross the equator. The celebrations begin with kissing and hugging loved ones and eating something sweet.
Amoo NoRuz, (“Uncle New Day”) a wise man dressed in green satin with a long, white beard and white hair, visits to bring sweets and words of wisdom for the young. And Haji Firouz, a young, vibrant man dressed in red satin, visits the streets to bring joy through music (tambourine) and dancing. For twelve days the rituals continue as families visit elders and children receive new money as gifts.
Ancient Persians believed thirteen to be an evil number. Therefore on the thirteenth day of the New Year outings are planned to take the evil out of homes and into nature where it can be absorbed. This thirteenth day of playing tricks on one another and celebration with friends and family in nature represents the good throughout the year. For 2012, on Sunday, April 1st many will gather at Vasona Park in Los Gatos, California.
Recipes for the Week:
Sabzi Polo (Herb Rice) (serves 6-8)
Adapted from Persian Cuisine by M.R. Ghanoonparvar, this is a delightful rice dish for all the senses. Feel free to replace any of the herbs with other greens from your refrigerator.

Ingredients:
3 cups of basmati rice
8 cups of water
4 tablespoons salt
9 tablespoons butter, melted
1/8 teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 2 tablespoons warm water (optional)
2 bunches of green onions, chopped
½ bunch of parsley, chopped
½ bunch of dill, chopped
1 bunch of cilantro, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced

Method:
1. Rinse the rice several times in warm water to remove the starch. Soak in warm water. This is not absolutely necessary, soaking allows for less boiling time. Some soak for several hours or overnight.
2. Place water and salt into a large pot and bring to a boil. The pot should be large enough to allow the rice to roll around freely as the water boils.
3. Drain the water from the soaked rice and add the rice to the boiling water. Boil 5 to 10 minutes until kernels are no longer crunchy but still quite firm. Boiling time varies depending on the quality of the rice and length of soaking. Drain rice in a colander.
4. Sauté garlic, green onions, parsley, cilantro and dill in 5 tablespoons of butter. Combine rice and greens.
5. Use the remaining butter or some cooking oil to cover the bottom of a 4-quart pot. Place combined rice and greens into the pot.
6. Cook the rice for 20 minutes over medium heat, then reduce the heat and allow the rice to steam for another 30 minutes or so. The heat can be turned very low and the rice kept warm until serving time.

Kurdish Chickpea, Cilantro & Cumin Salad
(serves 4)
Adapted from Silk Road Cooking by Najmieh Batmanglij. Legend has it that vegetarian Persia was first introduced to meat when the devil (disguised as a cook) tricked the king into eating meat. This resulted in two snakes growing on the king’s shoulders that had to be fed the brains of two young men each day. The two sisters in charge of the king’s kitchen saved Persia’s youth by substituting sheep’s brains and helping the young men escape into the mountains. These men are said to be the ancestors of the Kurds. This salad is very popular in India, Armenia, Turkey, and throughout Iran.

Ingredients:
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
½ inch ginger root, peeled and grated or ¼ teaspoon dried ginger
½ teaspoon each, salt and freshly ground pepper
1 hot green chili, chopped or 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 large tomato, peeled and sliced
2 cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
4 cups shredded greens, lettuce or arugula (optional)

Method:
1. Heat oil in a wok or large skillet over medium heat until very hot. Add the cumin and cook for 20 seconds. Add the onion and garlic, and stir-fry for 5 minutes or until the onions are translucent.
2. Add the remaining ingredients except for the cilantro and stir-fry for 20 seconds. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Adjust seasoning to taste and just before serving add the cilantro. Serve on the bed of greens with couscous, bread, rice, pasta or bulgur.

Variation:
You can also make this salad by replacing the chickpeas with cooked black beans, kidney beans, white beans, or a mixture.

KuKu Sabzi (Herb Patty) (serves 6-8)
Adapted from Persian Cuisine by M.R. Ghanoonparvar, this is an easy, everyday dish. Feel free to replace any of the herbs with other greens, such as the collards in this week’s bag.

Ingredients:
1½ cups finely chopped parsley
½ cup finely chopped leeks or scallions
¼ cup finely chopped lettuce
¼ cup fresh dill chopped or 1 tablespoon dried
¼ cup fresh mint chopped or 1 to 2 tablespoons dried
¼ teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon saffron (optional)
6 eggs slightly beaten
¼ cup oil or butter

Method:
1. Combine all ingredients except oil in a mixing bowl (or put in electric blender, eggs first) and mix well.
2. Melt butter in a skillet and pour mixture in. Cover and cook over medium heat until mixture is set and brown on the bottom, 10-15 minutes*.
3. Turn gently like a pancake and brown the other side.
4. Kuku can also be baked in an oiled dish at 350 degrees for 45-60 minutes, or until brown on the bottom and crispy on top.

*After the mixture has set the cover can be removed to facilitate browning.

Check out Four Cooking Together’s adaptation of these traditional Persian favorites:
Sabzi Polo (Herb Rice)
Kurdish Chickpea, Cilantro and Cumin Salad

A note from Four Cooking Together...
Thanks to Nasim for sharing her story of NoRuz. I have a lot to learn about Persian cooking technique, and my method is far from authentic. Please share what you’re cooking to celebrate the New Year — along with your tips.

Welcome, Spring!

And if you have a few mushrooms or chard left from last week’s delivery, check out this weekend posting that offers some ideas:

Can’t get enough Chard...

Can’t get enough Chard...

Mon, 19 Mar 2012 20:40:17 -0700

Here’s a couple of simple recipes to try, if you still have some chard hanging around from last week’s delivery. We’ve got a couple of rows growing in the garden on top of what we receive from Freshness Farms, so there’s never enough fresh ideas for using those big, beautiful leaves (and stems).

Savory Bread Pudding with Chard, Mushrooms and Goat Cheese

Feta, Chard and Sun-dried Tomato Dinner Pastries

Happy NoRuz!

Natural Resources

Wed, 14 Mar 2012 17:45:31 -0700

Cooking can be a solitary endeavor — each of us foraging alone in our pantries, trying to muster a tasty bite for dinner. Day in, day out. No small task. And one that cries out for fresh ideas and coaching — a wise friend with a winning recipe employing just the ingredients we have on hand.

In earlier days a resourceful cook turned to a reliable cookbook or recipe box. Perhaps phoned a friend or knocked on a neighbor’s door. The same process still works, but in addition I consult a resource pool my parents didn’t have — an on call line-up. 24/7. There’s Mark and Melissa. And Heidi and Sarah. Not to mention Tori and Elise. In this age of Facebook and Twitter, where friends can sometimes be more illusory than real flesh and blood — people we may never exchange words with and perhaps never meet — these are my cooking buddies, my culinary coaches. Not treasured in the same fashion as the friends I genuinely know, but when faced with putting dinner on the table tonight, a virtual friend with a tasty solution is as good as gold, or a pot of fragrant stew — which is really what has value at dinnertime, anyway.

While it might seem odd to call these on-line resources friends, if you’ve followed a good food writer, you might agree that after months or years of soaking up someone’s ideas and recipes — with a sprinkling of story along the way — you develop a reasonable picture of what they’re like, down to what they fixed for dinner last night. You might even say you like them — and not in the Facebook sense. Especially when you consider that they’ve taught you a lot about cooking — from poaching an egg, to canning jam and turning out chewy pizza crust at home. You’ve laughed at their jokes and smiled at their foibles. Funny as it sounds, you trust them with your dinner. I do, anyway.

For years I’ve turned to Mark Bittman in The New York Times — my go-to source for tasty food, on the table without fuss. More recently Melissa Clark’s down-to-earth writing and recipes (A Good Appetite) have me captivated, along with Martha Rose Shulman (Recipes for Health). Subscribing to the Times is far cheaper than a daily latte fix and infinitely more useful (tea is my drink). It was The Times that eventually dragged me online and into the blogosphere where I’ve met astounding talent. A virtually endless line of cooks with great ideas in blogs such as Sarah Britton’s health-oriented My New Roots, Heidi Swanson’s photography-rich 101 Cookbooks and Molly Wizenberg’s story-before-food Orangette. Some are practically classic and reliably great in every way — actually more than one. There are those that cover a range of topics, have niche appeal or a bakery focus. There’s World Cuisine. And of course Vegetarian.

So earlier this week as I was staring down a row of chard in the garden, plus a basket of plump mushrooms and some peppy dandelion leaves, I turned to my friend Melissa for ideas.
A small nip and tuck to the recipe — subbing in what I had, for what I didn’t — and soon we were digging into a chewy barley salad packed with fresh greens and roasted mushrooms. Thanks to Melissa all was well around our dinner table. Tomorrow I’ll be looking to my friend Mark and a pot of miso for guidance.

It’s great what you can do with a little help from your friends. The following recipes are courtesy of my on-line cooking coaches...

Recipes for the Week:
The first comes from Melissa Clark’s A Good Appetite column in the New York Times. Clark writes with witty flair and her recipes are first-rate. A few weeks ago she mixed up the barley salad with roasted mushrooms pictured above. Hers used celery root, but she suggested substituting sunchokes, carrots or turnips. If you go that route (instead of using the greens like I did), cut into bite-size cubes, lightly coat in oil, season with salt and pepper and roast at 400 degrees until tender when pierced with a fork. Cover with foil if the cubes brown too quickly. Here’s my version with sautéed greens.

Sarah Britton is a Canadian nutritionist and chef based in Denmark. Her My New Roots blog features healthful, creative ideas for cooking with fresh food plus a wealth of nutritional wisdom wrapped into each post. Try her roasted fennel salad with orange and mint or check out her regular Meatless Mondays posts where jeweled rice with orange peel was featured this week.

Onion recipes abound. Every blogger has something to say about the ever-popular edible members of the allium family. How about old-fashioned onion dip with caramelized onions from San Francisco-based natural foods guru and food photographer Heidi Swanson? Besides her popular and long-running blog 101 Cookbooks, Heidi also has two recently published cookbooks Super Natural Cooking and Super Natural Everyday. You might enjoy this recent post about tomato soup, which ironically ties back to Melissa Clark.

If you like more traditional fare, check out Elise Bauer’s Simply Recipes — one of the more popular blogs around. Elise started posting family recipes as a way to document her cooking experiences with her parents. One thing led to another and years later, she earns her keep with winning recipes that appeal to the masses. Check out her suggestion for cooking with sunchokes — this creamy-smooth soup. Elise is known for her treatment of some tried-and-true classics like glazed carrots with orange. I’ll be trying her grilled onion salad sometime soon.

Smitten Kitchen is another site that’s been around the block and back again. It’s a steady resource that’s well-written and artfully photographed. Cooking from a pint-sized New York City kitchen, Deb and Alex turn out tasty recipes every time. Try Deb’s orange salad with feta and mint or simply browse and drink in the pictures.

Martha Rose Shulman’s Recipes for Health column in The Times is something I look forward to each week — another viewpoint on healthful recipes (seems to be my theme). With fresh-picked oranges from a friend’s tree, she recently offered up a load of grownup smoothie recipes. Those ideas inspired me to get the blender down from the top shelf, dust it off and juice my way through nearly an entire bag of veggies. Here’s a few ideas for mushrooms from Martha: with eggs, Mexican-style and tossed into pasta.

Last but not least, if you have celery left from last week and a lemon, toss them with the parsley in this week’s bag for a fresh-tasting quinoa salad from the growing recipe archive at Four Cooking Together.

Explore your way through these blogs and more. You’ll always find a friend to turn to in the kitchen.

As always, let us know what you’re cooking this week...

Toss Over a New Leaf

Wed, 7 Mar 2012 17:17:27 -0800

“Rule 22: Eat mostly plants, especially leaves” —Michael Pollan in Food Rules
It’s no secret we ought to be eating loads of leafy greens. These days the message would be tough to miss, unless you’ve been on a trip to a far-off galaxy. For those firmly rooted on earth, pick up just about any food magazine, cookbook or nutrition guide, and you’re likely to read about the health benefits of leaves. Dietary fiber, iron, folate, potassium, calcium and vitamins A, C, D, E and K are among the nutrients packed into these edible photosynthesis factories. We’re talking about arugula, chard, kale, spinach, collards, bok choy, dandelion, mustard — even the tops of beets and turnips — to name a few.

Unfortunately, many adults still haven’t developed a love of spinach, or its leafy cousins, despite the fact that each cup of the Popeye-fueling, nutritional powerhouse is loaded with two hundred percent of our daily requirement of Vitamin K — an important component to bone health. Perhaps this has to do with lingering nightmares of over-cooked piles of gray-green mush lurking on a childhood dinner plate. In fact I’m surprised to consider that over years of cooking from a weekly farm bag, big bunches of chard and kale are among the items I look forward to most. Even more astounding: our twelve-year-old’s favorite dinner features cooked spinach — my least favorite at the same age.

The marvelous, if astounding, truth is that greens are not only good for us, when properly cooked, they are full of flavor and amazingly versatile in the kitchen. Prized in cuisines around the world, they pair well with root vegetables like potatoes, beans, lentils, tomatoes, olives, peppers, mushrooms and squash among others. Greens benefit from aromatics like onion, ginger and garlic; acidic partners such as lemon and vinegar; and the judicious drizzle of excellent olive oil. They are vibrant additions to soups, pasta and grain dishes and have a natural affinity for the smooth luxury of cheese and eggs.

Edible leaves differ widely in texture and flavor. The more delicate ones like spinach and arugula prefer only the briefest turn in a hot pan, and are fabulous raw. In taste, these siblings are dissimilar as can be — one mild, the other full of peppery kick. Sturdier in nature, kale and collards take advantage of robust cooking in slow sautés, stews and braises. For assertive dandelion, light blanching before sautéing, can mellow the edge. Chard and its cousin beet offer crisp stems that can be consumed with or without their mild leaves (and in the case of beets, the roots too). And don’t forget Asian greens, like bok choy, which features substantial white stalks that turn creamy-tender with cooking.

No matter which leaf you choose be sure to rinse thoroughly under running water with a light scrub to remove sandy residue from nooks and crannies. Unwashed greens can be stored in the fridge for several days. Place loosely in a bag to retain humidity but allow for air circulation.

Try incorporating more leaves into your diet — sneak them into soups and salads, a little at a time, or go bold and feature the vitamin-laced goodness in mashed potatoes or a spicy slaw. You might be surprised to find them land a place in your heart and as well as a regular spot on your dinner plate.

Recipes for the Week:
Easy Sautéed Greens
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Greens of choice, thoroughly rinsed, stems removed and roughly chopped into large pieces
• Minced garlic to taste
• Crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• Fresh lemon juice (optional)
1. Heat a skillet on medium and add olive oil to lightly coat the bottom. Add minced garlic and red pepper, if using, and sauté lightly for a few seconds.
2. Add greens (it’s good if they have a bit of water on them from rinsing) and sauté until tender, stirring occasionally. Greens will cook down in volume. Add leaves to pan in batches if they don’t fit all at once.
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste. And a squeeze of lemon juice if desired.
1. Enjoy as a side dish, toss with pasta, stir into cooked rice or whole grains, or spread on toasted bread.

Kale - Cabbage Slaw with Ginger and Apple
This salad offers healthy crunch with a sweet kick of ginger.
(Serves 4)
• 2 cups finely shredded purple cabbage
• 2 cups finely sliced kale (stems removed)
• 1 large apple, cored and cut into thin strips
• 2 scallions, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon (or to taste) minced, peeled ginger root
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
• 1/3 cup slivered almonds
• 2 tablespoons unsalted, shelled sunflower seeds
1. Place cabbage, kale, apples and scallions in a large bowl. Toss with ginger root, oil, vinegar and salt and pepper.
2. Place seeds and nuts into a small dry skillet over medium heat. Toast until nuts begin to brown and mustard seeds start popping. Be careful to shake pan frequently to prevent burning. Cool slightly, then toss into salad and mix well.

Start the morning out on the right leaf. Mix up a vitamin-packed green smoothie. You’ll feel loaded with energy and a virtuous feeling to last the day.

Arugula is featured in this classic bistro fare (pictured at the top of the journal post) —
French Lentil Salad with Arugula and Goat Cheese

Dandelion greens are among the healthiest leaves around. Here are a couple of favorite recipes.
Green Mashed Potatoes
Dandelion Greens with Garbanzo Beans

Carrots and Daikon are natural partners. Start with matchstick strips of each root (peeled first) — toss into a bowl with a mustardy vinaigrette, chopped kale and a bit of dandelion too. Mince shallots and toss in a few toasted walnuts for even more crunch.

Roast raw cauliflower in flat "steaks": the white crucifer transforms into a barely recognizable twin — mellow and nearly sweet, with a soft texture that yields to the fork. Serve as is, alongside a main dish, or if you feel more ambitious, piled with sautéed greens.

Remember ants-on-a-log? How about a version that both children and adults will adore, crowned with goodies like chocolate chips, sunflower seeds, dried cherries and apricots? Instead of the usual peanut butter, spread hazelnut, almond or cashew butter. I guess we’re talking about not-just-ants-on-a-log.

Let us know how you’re cooking with leafy greens and the other fresh goodness in this week’s farm bag...